Hmmm…Peru….what to say….I think that you have a rubbish problem. Our first 5 days in the country and we saw more rubbish on the side of the road, sections of the motorway, and hills that looked like a rubbish dump instead of the dessert region that it should have been. However, I cannot say that this was the first country that we have been to where we have seen a lot of rubbish, and from what we hear, it is not going to be the worst.
Our crossing into Peru was quick and simple. The border control, much like other countries, largely ignored us and went about their work. The whole truck (about 24 people) were through in about 20 minutes. We continued down the Peruvian coast to a little beach called Punta Sal. The landscape was much the same for the drive – sandy hills and smelly fish. However, when we reached our destination it was very pleasant to see a beautiful beach. We quickly set up our tent (and our airbed – yay!! However, pumping that beast up is now my least favourite thing ever) and went for a swim in the sea. The waves were punishing – I recall one hitting me and being dragged underwater and towards the shore for over 10 metres. I emerged covered in sand (all through my hair) and spluttering. Laurence had a similar experience when he first entered as well. From there we showered before hopping into the outdoor pool, which had heated throughout the day by the sun. It was an extremely relaxing point in our day. Our sleep, on the god like airbed, was wonderful I did smirk a little when I saw people had slept on the few hammocks there were and the others crawling out of their tents with crooks in their backs.
As we were in a beach town, we did not do much. A small trip to look at some turtles at a wharf (Laurence thinks that they were there to eat the rubbish that the fishermen put in the ocean after their day fishing). Other than that, we just relaxed and enjoyed ourselves (and bought overpriced fresh-ish seafood).
Our next drive took approximately 13 hours. I discovered that I could read on the truck without feeling sick and spent most of my time doing that. Laurence spend most of his time fidgeting in his seat and being uncomfortable. Halfway along the way we stopped at the Lord of Sipan Museum (a gold and relic museum). I must say that it was a little strange, but it showed a lot of what the ancient civilisations would have worn and been buried in. Our final destination, another camping spot near a beach, was Huanchaco. This was a bigger town than the last beach and we could wander around and eat at any number of restaurants. We did spend a day looking at pre-Inca ruins – first the pyramids of the sun and moon which belonged to the Moche civilisation and second the Chan Chan archaeological site which belonged to the Chimu civilisation. Both were very interesting, but I liked the frescos of the Muche civilisation best. This group lived at a similar time to the people at the first site we visited just out of Mexico, so it was interesting to look at the similarities and differences. In addition, they were about my height – so I should fit right in. Laurence would have been a strange giant.
Our last stop before making it to Lima was Huaraz – a mountain village (but it looked pretty big to me driving into it) at about 3000 m up. The trip from sea level to 3000 m in the one day was interesting to watch. People very quickly felt it (I myself only seem to be affected with the increased heart rate and breathlessness so far). People quickly opted for non-hiking options. My first choice, horse riding, was ruled out as the helmets provided by the hostel (as the horse riding place did not provide any) were very old and not quite suitable. Hence, I slept in and finished my book, relaxing for the morning. Laurence opted to go mountain biking – being driven up to around 4000 m and biking down the road/path for approximately 80km whilst being followed by the truck in case he got sick of it/tired. He did manage to make it down the mountain without seriously injuring himself, although I am not sure how he did it. Two of the people he was riding with came out of it with some gnarly bruises, scrapes, and scratches.
The next day was a role reversal. I went hiking and Laurence stayed in bed. I completed the Laguna 69 trek (the hardest hike that I did in South America). This hike started at around 3800m and progressed to 4600m. As soon as I started walking, I was finding it difficult (and this was still on the flat), by the time I made it to the first saddle I was sweating, puffing, and wishing that I had stayed in bed like Laurence. I told everyone that I might not make it, that I would walk slowly by myself, and put my headphones in for some encouragement music to try to get me up the hill. I did in fact make it up the first saddle, but upon making it across the flat section for the second saddle the guide left me behind, allocating a ‘meeting point’ if I did not make it up the second saddle. I must say that this second saddle was much harder than the previous one. I ended up counting 30 steps and then giving myself a 10-second rest the whole way up. Eventually I made it to the top and it was worth the effort – a stunning lake with a glacier above it. However, I would never do this walk again, I have reconsidered any trekking at altitude, and, at the time, I was seriously concerned about my fitness ability for the Inca Trail.
In Lima we were a mess. Our bags were full of dirty washing, we were exhausted, and we really needed a break from the people with whom we were travelling. Who knew that travelling as a group for such a long period (OMG – only three weeks and we have almost four months in total) could be so tiring. We chose two activities that we “could not miss” and rested for the remainder of the time. Our first activity was to see the Parliament and the changing of the guards. This was a good experience but I am not sure how many times the guards need to walk across the front of the building and click their heels together before changing the actual guard. The band was pretty cool, but it was a pretty hot day to be standing in the sun for an hour!! Our second stop was the catacombs. We had a really nice tour guide (aka – please give me good tips) who allowed us to take a few photos whilst down there. From what I recall, about 25,000 people a buried down there. A lot of them were in common ‘graves’ when we went through, just not in skeleton form. There was graves of legs, separate graves of skulls etc. It was interesting and the first catacombs that I have seen. Well worth a visit.
On the way to our desert oasis, Huacachina, we stopped off to take a boat trip out to the Ballestas Islands, Paracas. There were a lot of birds (the cliffs were painted in white streaks) and sea lions. What is it about sea lions? We could smell them a long time before we could see them. This was touted as the “poor mans Galapagos.” However, as the awful smell lingered, I wonder whether they smell the same and, if so, why so many people rave about them. I would not be able to concentrate on the animals with that smell around.
Our desert oasis involved us hopping into sand dune buggies (an engine with a roll cage) and hooning around the dunes. A couple of times we stopped so that people could go sand boarding. Having looked at the size and slope of the hill I opted out. Laurence opted in, repeatedly. Once again, he survived unharmed. That night we watched the sun set, ate BBQ, and slept under the stars. It was actually a really good drinking and bonding session with our group. I think a few people got pretty close that night.
As the desert of Northern Peru stretched on and on (and on), we made our way to Nazca (you know the place with the lines in the desert ground). This hot, waterless place must have been difficult to live in. I could barely take it for the couple of days that we camped there – and we had a pool! I explored the lines by air (on one of the tiny Cessna planes that really do not seem like they should be in the air). We twisted and turned. I took photos and tried not to throw up in the plane – one of the first time that I have been travel sick in an aeroplane. I must say that I was unsuccessful in my attempts. Even the photos did not turn out so good.
Making our way inland to Arequipa, home of Juanita – the ice maiden. Juanita was an Inca child sacrifice. They found her about two thirds of the way up a volcano and is famous because, due to the cold and the altitude, she was extremely well preserved. We visited Juanita and saw that she was tiny, no more than 15 but looks more like 12. It seems sad the way that she would have lived and died, they think that she was sacrificed to stop the volcano from erupting. I also went to a convent, just to give it a test run (not). It was a beautiful, peaceful place in the middle of the city – with guinea pigs!!!
Nearing the end of our Peruvian trip, and definitely out of the desert now, we made our way to Chivay. En-route we came across a crap-ton of llamas (or variations of llamas). Laurence took about a million photos.
In the actual town of Chivay we went to see the Condors. I think that they were playing games though because after two hours of waiting right as we hopped into the truck to leave, three came up above the cliffs. They were almost too high by the time we got out, but came back around as we got back in. That evening, there was a rather large earthquake and the volcano on the skyline started spitting out a lot of smoke. I know that many people were freaking out, packing their bags, and asking whether we should be worried. Laurence and I were out on the rooftop taking these great photos.
Trying to impart some culture into our group, we stopped off in Raqchi for a homestay. WE did some exploring, ate some local food, but to be honest Laurence spent most of the time throwing up in a toilet that refused to flush for most of the night due to a migraine. Culture-fail on our part.
Last stop in Peru, Cuzco and the Inca Trail. You will have to wait for the next installment…
